Day 43 – Poking Along to Palas de Rei

Dave, the guard at the gate.

A behind-the-scenes shot of the infield team,

choosing, modifying, submitting each night

to the Blog Boss. Cutting room for pics, too.

Leaving Portomarin at 6 AM to beat the

heat. Never got that hot today, though.

One man's junk is another man's treasure.

The cows have come home to empty their tanks.

Clearly, they need some udder relief!

Another cross with personal tokens of loved ones.

Really fun group of Irish friends who started

from Sarria. They gave Dave some advice 

about his sore leg. More electrolytes! 

Some large groups of high school kids on the

walk with us now. They are excited and noisy!

These two, walking together to share music

headsets. Dave and I will not be doing that.

Nice back yard with a Camino theme.

Our Irish pals again. They stop at every bar.

All Caminos are different and personal.

Another group of quiet kids.

Lighting candles in the Santiago de Alba 

church in Palas de Rei.

Hope Dave is lighting one 

for that sore leg!

10:05 PM, saying good-bye to the sun.

Side window open, hopin' for a breeze.

Kinda hot in this here room!

Tomorrow, we turn our faces to

Melide, a 9.3-mile walk. After that,

only 2 more stops before Santiago!

A story from Dave:

       So, today was a tough one. My hamstring problem has spread to the calf now, and I think a pre-existing muscle weakness in that leg is beginning to cause problems as the other muscles try to compensate. Contributing to the issue may be a lack of adequate electrolytes. (My Irish doctor-friend clued me in on this and gave me some powder to treat it.) Great guy. Hoping this was at least part of the cause of today's difficulties and that things will be better tomorrow. Meanwhile, I will keep throwing ice and Deep Blue at this thing. With a good night's sleep, these old bones should be ready to rumble! (At least they only have to rumble a little over nine miles each for the next two days.)

       Due to the leg issue, I have to limp and take smaller strides. This means I am slower than most walkers. People pass me all day long, where in the past, I was the passer. It has to be frustrating for Mike (probably even more so than for me, since he is still able-bodied), but he is an impressively good sport about it all. He told me (in jest, I think) that he would leave me by the side of the road if we didn't make it to our destination by 2:00 PM. We made it at 1:40. That distance would normally take us five hours; today it took seven. Thank goodness it didn't get as hot as forecasted, as a few unexpected clouds appeared. 

       Don't worry, Sue. I am doing all the self-care I need to be doing. As I approach the finish line, it seems that my body is rebelling, but I am in good spirits and still enjoying the experience. Life isn't always easy, but it really is worth it. Also "worth it" is Mike's friendship. Beneath the teasing (which actually keeps me smiling) is a wealth of concern and compassion that is felt and appreciated. Mike is unfailingly kind and thoughtful; a better Camino partner would be hard to find. 

A story from Mike:

       We have talked before about the three stages of the Camino. The first part, which is over the Pyrenees, is all about the body and becoming a pilgrim physically. The second part is the Meseta, which is long and flat and hot, challenging the mind. The third is about the soul and allowing the heart to be touched by Cruz de Ferro and O'Cebreiro and the final push to Santiago and the Botafumeiro. I have truly loved all of the Camino, and I believe these stages are descriptively accurate of the experience: body, mind, and soul.

       We started the third phase with a huge physical push up to the highest point on the Camino, Cruz de Ferro. Thanks to the first stage over the Pyrenees, we were physically prepared for the climb. When we achieved the peak, we were spiritually touched by the tenderness of laying open our feelings about Max and others whose challenges we are fighting. Our souls were moved, our hearts cleansed and renewed, and (we hope) some struggles may be eased. Directly afterward, we faced a long, hard descent of over 3,200 feet over rocky, slippery terrain. In order to keep from falling, spraining an ankle, or bruising an ankle bone, we had to pay close attention every second and protect each footstep with constant use of our hiking sticks. Perhaps this keener ability to manipulate the challenging terrains was gained in the Meseta with a calm, alert mind, ready to confront whatever the Camino (or life) puts in front of us. 

       During the really steep ascent to O'Cebreiro, my clothes were soaked through from the immense effort. Making it to the top and peacefully sitting in a most quiet, reverent church allowed me to touch the heavens with my thoughts and feelings. If you read this article about the rocks on the Camino and throughout our lives, then you will understand. I asked and received a small rock from that church, one that will connect us to O'Cebreiro and Max forever.

       I've been blessed in so many ways, thanks to Lynna letting me go, Dave being my bodyguard each and every day, and the Lord allowing my body, mind and soul to still respond and perform at the needed level. I will discuss the unexpected challenges of these last 100 kilometers tomorrow, and we hope you continue to follow along as we finish out the week and conclude this amazing journey.

I missed getting my Father's Day post in yesterday, so I will take just a moment to honor him. I loved my father. He is everything I wanted to be, especially the example of endless love for his girlfriend and companion. Happy Father's Day.

A great couple, the best.

Click below to support Dave and Mike's

cause of suicide prevention and mental health,

which they are championing with their walk.