Saturday, June 3, 2017

Day 26 – Laboring on to Leon

Before leaving Mansilla, Dave took one
 long. last, longing look at that big trout.
(now dubbed El SeƱor)

Farewell, Mansilla de las Mulas!

We enjoyed our stay.

This is where the two ways of the Camino meet.

Large home with ruins surrounding it.

River and scenic views – video bomber Dave.
(Don't you love those birds singing?)

Snuck up on some patches of red poppies.

It's good to see them wave to us again!

Dave on the Meseta, heading for Leon.

Mike, gazing down upon the Rio Porma.

The Rio Porma, a lovely sight to see.

Puente del Castro, home of the storks!

Check those critters out! Huge!!

Coming into Leon at last. Great city.

Ancient walls in Leon's old town.

One of many churches in old town.

A look inside this neat old building.

Here's the name and info on the exterior wall.

Our lady friends from Mansilla...
(New name: Womansilla.)
Fresh from DC, Seattle, Holland, Norway.

Catedral de Santa Maria de Leon.

A little video flavor.
(Note that Mike is attempting a Spanish accent.)

Attending pilgrim's mass at the Cathedral tomorrow.
Also found an LDS church to attend!

Can't go inside today, as there's a wedding.
Hoping to get some interior pics later.

Our hotel, from across the Plaza.

Tonight's accommodations.
It is our one night of luxury.

Lobby of our beautiful hotel.
Time out for a day of pampering.

Lovely view just off the lobby.

On the way to our rooms.
(This place used to be a convent.)

Not too shabby, eh?

And this is Dave's view, complete 
with magical maze garden!

Went to a restaurant that Mike's brother,
Jake, suggested: Bogeda Regina. Loved it!

Dave's fish soup was to-die-for.

Dave's cheesecake and vanilla ice cream.
Mike forgot to photograph the sirloin,
which was a pretty big misteak! So punny.

A wonderful meal at this family-owned eatery:
run by Dad, cooked by Mom, served by their son.
Thanks for the great tip, Jake!

Flashback! We were younger and unafraid,
 atop the Pyrenees.

Layover in Leon tomorrow!

A story from Dave:
We ate dinner last night with three of the women pictured below. The one on the far right with a blue coat hails from Bergen, Norway, the city where my paternal grandmother (Judith Jensine Jensen Anderson) was born in 1887. Our Norwegian friend had a few questions about Grandma's name, so I opened my Ancestry.com app to show her my family tree. She was excited to see my heritage portrayed in this way and recognized many traditional Norwegian names. I told her my grandmother left Norway as a young girl to marry my grandfather. Because they were poor, she was never able to return to see her family again. Our Norwegian dinner guest, who had an unpronounceable name (for me, anyway), described the city of Bergen with considerable enthusiasm, saying that I must visit there to see my relatives. She also mentioned a pilgrimage in Norway near Bergen, which has a climate like Seattle. It sounds appealing. For many years, I've felt a need to reconnect with my Norwegian family on behalf of my extended family in the US, no member of which (to my knowledge) has ever returned to the homeland. Sounds like my inner Viking is calling me to come Home!


A story from Mike: 
Our fifth day on the Meseta was long and straight and hot and fairly boring. This middle phase of our journey reminded me that there are two things going on with us every day: (1) what is on the outside, and (2) what is on the inside. The outside, we cannot change. The Camino has been a path for over 1,000 years of pilgrims, most of whom walk it with the goal of crossing Spain and reaching the other side. The weather, of course, cannot be altered. It is what it is. Rain may fall; wind may blow. It might be stormy or sunny. We are not in charge and can only accept what is offered us. The road lies outside of our control as well. It may be rocky with big boulders, paved in asphalt, cobbled with stone, covered in nice gravel or soft dirt. The conditions are not up to us. Again, it is only on the inside that we can exert control. As I walked today, I felt a closeness to those who have walked before, those who walk today, and Dave...who has walked beside me now for 26 days. So many pilgrims with different needs, challenges, and hardships...hundreds of thousands before me, with many more to come in the future.

Today, my feet hurt more than they have so far. Somewhere along the road from Mansilla to Leon, I developed a big bone bruise, but my mind told me to just keep putting one foot in front of the other until I reached Leon. I didn't want to accept the disappointment of catching a cab. I kept thinking of my wonderful wife, Lynna, who lives with constant pain each and every day of her life. Yet, in all our pictures and all our situations, she continues to smile. She does not let the pain ruin her plans                                                                                 or steal her opportunity to be with the grandkids; her attitude is predictably positive. Quite simply, Lynna refuses to dwell upon the heartaches and challenges. When shadows fall, she looks up and finds the sun. When darkness envelops, the moon and stars are hers. This is a good way to live, because none of us can control the outside elements that impact us every day and throughout our lives. What we can control is our attitude, how we look at things, and how we let the events of the day affect us. It's not what life does to us that is important; it's what we do with what life does to us that really matters.

Click below to support suicide prevention
and mental health, the causes Mike and Dave 
are championing with their walk.

Friday, June 2, 2017

Day 25 – Marching to Mansilla

Leaving El Burgo for Mansilla de las Mulas.
The Meseta can be a bit monotonous at times.

The long road ahead stretches into the distance.

Left-right, left-right, not much change of 
pace in sight...or change of view, either.

A few companionable pilgrims ease the way.

Kinda glad that paved roads are the exception...
often harder on the feet and less charming, too.
(One upside: no rocks or boulders to navigate!)

Cruising past Santa Martas, selfie time.

Another cool cross. We always stop for them.

Disintegrating tire. Mike's "artistic capture."

Entering the gate at Mansilla de las Mulas.

Mike saw this today and thought of Boise State.
Go, Broncos!

Hotel is pretty cute inside...

...And in the rooms, too.

Interesting decor out back in the courtyard.

Great ambience here...

...in this inviting courtyard of our hotel.

The entire town is charming.

And its Rio Esla is beautiful! 
(In the movie, The Way, this is where 
Martin Sheen drops his backpack.)

Mike spotted two big trout from the bridge
over the Rio Esla.

A fisherman tires to catch the "big one" on
the River Esla in Mansilla de las Mulas.

A stand of trees along the riverbank.

Entrance to Museo Etnografico Provincial de Leon.
Neat museum with artifacts and photos going back
many years. Great taste of what living here is like.
Magnifico!

Wall around the town of Mansilla. Very cool!

Tomorrow we will forge on to the
beautiful city of Leon. Can't wait.

A story from Dave and Mike:
Lynna asked us each to make a list of our top ten experiences thus far, so we did. Because so many of our choices were the same, we have consolidated a list of our top 14, in no particular order and as follows:
1. The sweet town of St. Jean Pied de Port and dinner at Des Pyrenees. We were the only ones in the restaurant for a 7-course meal.
2. Climbing over the Pyrenees by the Napoleon Way, up over 4900 feet and down 2490 feet, wth spectacular views from all sides.
3. Dinner in Roncesvalles with 110+ pilgrims for our first pilgrim's meal on the Camino.
4. Standing in the rain in front of the sign from Roncesvalles saying, "790 kilometers to Santiago de Compostela."
5. The plush, overgrown trails leading out of the Pyrenees to Pamplona.
6. The Pamplona bull ring and painting our shoes with a brush of rink red.
7. The simplicity of many of the churches that just have the Savior on a cross and very little else: Puente de la Reina, Torres del Rio, San Juan de Ortega, Fromista, and Sahagun.
8. Dave and Mike – good friends, really easy and fun traveling together.
9. The incredible pilgrims with huge weights and the spirit of the Camino; on the Pyrenees, the lady with two packs and Delta airlines flight attendant; the blind group in Estella, especially the older couple who were so much in love; Marg and Linda in Los Arcos.
10. Doctor Boris, the Butcher of Burgos and Nurse Ratched, aka the blister surgical team.
11. The technology to Skype/Facetime with Lynna and Sue, our best friends, and the kids/grandkids.
12. The daily blog; the phenomenal job of our editor, Sue; and the great support in likes and comments from our followers. You guys are the best and make our walk even more meaningful.
13. The plazas in small towns, so old and quaint, surrounded by connected sycamore trees––where every evening is family time for adults and kids of all ages, who clearly love visiting and playing together.
14. The many new friends from all over the world that support and encourage us all the way along the Camino. We love them.

We are also reposting Dave's story from yesterday, because it didn't get put on the blog until several hours after it was published, and we want to make sure no one missed it:

Just outside of Bercianos del Real Camino, we spotted that Atari backpack in front of us again and ended up sitting down with Jane and her daughter, Sarah, for a midday break. Remember them? Jane from Wales had an injured foot and was limping badly when Mike (our amateur drug pusher) gave her a Motrin 8. Her daughter gave me a sports drink powder. We hadn't seen them since that time about two weeks ago, and having taken two rest days since then, we figured we wouldn't be seeing any old friends from here on out. But that's not how the Camino works, because it brought us together again. We were chatting a while before we finally asked why they were walking the Camino. They said that their husband/dad had taken his own life two years ago, and they were walking and raising money for a suicide prevention group in their local area. We paused for a moment in surprise and solidarity before explaining our cause. It was an intimate moment as we all looked at one another without speaking. Jane finally voiced what each one of us was thinking: "We were meant to see each other again." No doubt about it. We exchanged contact information; and after we said our goodbyes for possibly the last time, Mike and I agreed to make a contribution to their important cause. Whom will we be guided to next?


Click below to support suicide prevention
and mental health, the causes Mike and Dave 
are championing with their walk.

Thursday, June 1, 2017

Day 24 – Bearing Down on El Burgo

We leave Saragun and go west to El Burgo Ranero.

A final goodbye to the huge gate of Saragun
as we begin another flat, warmish walk.

Neat little bridge over Rio Ces.

Sleepy pilgrim Mike, lazing around a bit.

Dave, screaming up the trail to Calzada del Coto.

A brief interview with pilgrim Dave.

It was fun running into Atari Jane, to whom I
gave Motrin a couple of weeks ago in Granon.

Here is the bag that earned her
the title of Atari Jane!

Stopped for orange Fanta with Jane and Sarah,
her daughter. The tat says "To the end, to the truth." 

Randi, Sarah and Jane join us for a break
in Bercianos del Real Camino.

Mike spots our destination through the 
sycamore trees and clicks his heels. 
(Didn't worry about him bumping his head
on a tree limb with only an inch vertical.)

We make it to El Burgo Ranero at last!

Got set up at the hotel and grabbed a drink at the bar.
Hope you don't think all we do is walk and drink.
(We do ice cream, also!)

 The Church of the Stork aubergue (hostel).

Sorry for a relatively short post, but the internet
in our hotel tonight is awful, and this is all we could
manage. Mansilla de las Mulas is our next stop!

Two stories from Dave:
Just as we were getting ready to take a picture of Jane and Sarah (below), our friend Randi from Denmark appeared. We asked her to join the picture. Randi is the one in orange; do you remember her? She's the woman who had a Danish book explaining the 7 Keys to the Soul of a Pilgrim. Anyway, Randi took us over to a group of German women she'd been walking with and said, "These are the men who have been carrying those rocks I told you about." She then pulled out a rock from her pocket (one she had picked up after meeting us), and it had the name of her grandson written on it! How proudly she showed it to us. Guess we were supposed to meet Randi again, and I'm glad we did. It felt good to think that she had joined us in our efforts to bless and remember our families.


Catching up with old friends.
As I mentioned earlier, we spotted that Atari backpack in front of us again just outside of Bercianos del Real Camino and ended up sitting down with Jane and her daughter, Sarah, for a midday break. Remember them? Jane from Wales had an injured foot and was limping badly when Mike (our amateur drug pusher) gave her a Motrin 8. Her daughter gave me a sports drink powder. We hadn't seen them since that time about two weeks ago, and having taken two rest days since then, we figured we wouldn't be seeing any old friends from here on out. But that's not how the Camino works, because it brought us together again. We were chatting a while before we finally asked why they were walking the Camino. They said that their husband/dad had taken his own life two years ago, and they were walking and raising money for a suicide prevention group in their local area. We paused for a moment in surprise and solidarity before explaining our cause. It was an intimate moment as we all looked at one another without speaking. Jane finally voiced what each one of us was thinking: "We were meant to see each other again." No doubt about it. We exchanged contact information; and after we said our goodbyes for possibly the last time, Mike and I agreed to make a contribution to their important cause. Whom will we be guided to next?


More wise words from a fellow walker, Nipun Mehta:
Most of us believe that to give, we first need to have something to give. The trouble with that is, that when we are taking stock of what we have, we almost always make accounting errors. Oscar Wilde once quipped, "Now-a-days, people know the price of everything, but the value of nothing." We have forgotten how to value things without a price tag. Hence, when we get to our most abundant gifts––like attention, insight, compassion––we confuse their worth because they're well, priceless...On our walking pilgrimage, we noticed that those who had the least were most readily equipped to honor the priceless...True generosity doesn't start when you have some thing to give, but rather when there's nothing in you that's trying to take. 

As Dave and Mike said in an earlier post, giving seems to come naturally on the Camino. Perhaps that's why The Way becomes a spiritual experience for so many. When pilgrims give themselves over to the walk, somehow the window of giving opens as wide and far as the pilgrimage they are making. It is said that, once you've walked the Camino, you're always a pilgrim. Dave and Mike hope that is true!

Click below to support suicide prevention
and mental health, the causes Mike and Dave 
are championing with their walk.