Days 39 & 40 – (1) Sojourning to Sarria (2) Last Layover

Leaving Triacastela. Lots of fog.

Dave struggling up first steep grade.

Found the shell pool. Forgot swimsuits,

 so we can't send you all of our pictures.

You're welcome.

Dave and Mike, posing for the camera.

The pool is by the city of  A Balsa.

This pose is Mike's particular favorite.

This is the top. Soon we will be walking

down through a dense layer of fog.

Walking into Sarria on a long track, Dave tries

to keep up with the 80-year-olds ahead of him.

Coming off a steep grade – Alto Riocabo mountain.

Mike, looking up at Dave, coming off

the steep mountain trail.

In the distance, Sarria, the start of the last

100 kilometers, packed with new pilgrims.

They are in it for the shorter haul, but they

are still in it to do what leg of it they can.

Iglesia Santa Marina de Sarria. Those who can

only travel the last 100 kilometers sign up for the

Camino here to get their Compostela de Santiago.

Inside left, next to the high altar, is where a 

lady stamped our Compostela to be submitted

when we reach our destination...Santiago!

Dinner at Roma, eating the house special: Hake

with scallops, scampi, clams and veggie broth.

And we continue our "tour de flan."

Look what else is on the menu! 

Steaks and sausage on the grill. 

The master chef in his office. He spent the

evening cutting meat with a huge knife.

Dave's personal trainer, Sparky, after working 

on the leg, which is acting up a bit.

River through Sarria, where we consumed our

share of Fanta and Coke Zero, almond ice 

cream bars, and french fries with every meal.

Looking the other way, up-river. This river has

plenty of fish, but it would be scary to eat them.

Tomorrow we head to Portomarin, 13.7 miles.

We are 71.5 miles from Santiago, our goal!

96 degrees forecasted for Sunday. Ugh.

A story from Mike:

If the entire world had the attitude of the Camino, it would be a much better place. This afternoon, we were sitting by the river passing through the city of Sarria with a nice breeze and a cold Fanta. We were visiting with a lady and her daughter from Connecticut, another of the many mother-daughter combos hiking the Camino. We marveled at how wonderful the spirit of the Camino is, and how unique...just the feeling of cooperation, mutual respect, and non-judgmental love and acceptance. The people...the pilgrims...come in all shape and sizes. They are brunette, blond, red-haired, blue-haired(!), bald, dread-locked...every imaginable kind of look. They are clean, dirty, colorful, really colorful (the bikers take it to a new level). Some have new outfits, shirts, buffs, shoes, while others have only the clothes they were wearing days or months before they came to the Camino. The packs they carry are small, huge, sleek, baggy...all carting just enough for themselves and their needs. What stands out is that everybody is so friendly, courteous, and caring toward their fellow pilgrims. There is really no word for what happens. Everyone is so willing to help their fellow hikers with anything at all. If one person has a blister, others are willing to give advice or medical supplies like compeed to cover and heal it. If somebody has a bad knee, others will offer a knee brace, like Dave did to the lady in trouble earlier on our walk...or even pain medication such a Voltaren or Motrin 8s are given to assist those in trouble on the trail.  

There seem to be no class distinctions. Whether you stay at an albergue, hostel, hotel or parador, you still share the trail, a drink, or lunch at a local bar. You often eat dinners together and exchange your most interesting stories. Possessions are not a major concern. We learn to get by with only what we need and no more. All in all, you live with, cooperate, and have compassion for your fellow pilgrims. It is refreshing and comforting that residents of the communities along the way trust the Camino walkers and are helpful and welcoming, always saying a kind word, like "Buen Camino," as they walk past. It is great to walk into town a complete stranger and feel like you are welcome, like you are arriving home after being away. Dave and I couldn't help but think what a wonderful place this world would be if we could  have that attitude prevail throughout the world...a world where everybody said and truly meant, "Buen Camino, have a good day." We wish you well...Is there anything we can do to help you? Do you need a knee brace, Motrin? "What can I do to make your life better" is an attitude we could all emulate.

John Lennon wrote a wonderfully successful song. Here are a few verses:

You may say I'm a dreamer,

But I'm not the only one.

I hope someday you'll join us,

And the world will live as one.

Imagine no possessions;

I wonder if  you can.

No need for greed or hunger,

A brotherhood of man.

Imagine all the people

sharing all the world...You...

You may say I'm a dreamer,

But I'm not the only one.

I hope someday you'll join us,

And the world will live as one.

Thank you for your continued support, and we really appreciate all your kind words. Buen Camino.

A story from Dave:

We walked into the city of Sarria today, and we are in for a change of pace. Sarria is a town of 13,000 people and is known as a major starting point for pilgrims with limited time but anxious to pick up a "compostela" in Santiago. Starting from Sarria will cover just the requisite 100 kilometers to the cathedral in Santiago. 

So today, as we walked in the city, we noted the large crowds of newcomers getting off buses, cabs, and trains...all with their backpacks and luggage, excited to start their adventure. Lots of young people now that school is out, and so we expect that the trail will be much more crowded than before. I suspect that the newbies will recognize Mike and me as the grizzled old veterans of the Camino and reach out to us at every chance to hear our sage advice on how to survive the trek against all odds. After all, we have come 400 miles with nary a scratch. But perhaps we will be the ones to do the real learning, because the Camino has taught us an important lesson. All are welcomed with an open mind and heart on the Camino. We have felt this attitude coming our way time and time again, and we will understand it even more fully as we offer it to our new amigos. We haven't even scratched the surface yet! One thing is certain, there is no reason why we should be annoyed with newcomers in a territory where even the natives are not territorial. Instead, we will follow the advice of one wise traveler: "Beware of signs of irritation at the intrusion on 'my' Camino. Remember that many of the new arrivals may be nervous starting out, and the last thing they need is aloofness, built on a false sense of superiority. A loving pilgrim welcomes all he or she meets along the path, with an open mind and open heart...without judgment. There is plenty of Camino to go around.

PS. One of the truly wonderful treats of the Camino is the international flavor. We have met representatives of Korea (lots!), Germany, Norway, Holland, France, Hungary, Sweden, Denmark, Columbia, Argentina, Chile, Canada, and the US...and of course, these are just the people we asked! What a wonderful world we share.

PS. Dave tweaked his hamstring at Sarria today. Prayers would be greatly appreciated.

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