Day 48 – Pilgrim's Mass, Cathedral Sights, and Santiago

Here we are, in the middle of the plaza,

ready to attend the Pilgrim's Mass.

These stone plaques are at the center. Neat.

Front door of the Catedral de Santiago.

This is Lynna's favorite alcove in the church.

To see Jesus holding this little boy touched her

heart, because Max is in the arms of Jesus, too. 

Another alcove, including a statue of Mary.

This is the crypt and silver box where

the relics of St. James reside. 

Video, descending into the vault.

The tradition is for pilgrims to hug the upper

bust of this St. James statue. The photo doesn't 

 do it justice. It's quite ornate, with huge jewels.

Dave, getting ready to hug the statue of St. James.

Dave, coming out of upper room.

St. James the Pilgrim in the Cathedral,

a simple and beautiful piece of art.

Inside the main church hall, readying the

Botafumeiro, which releases smoke that

in ancient days was used as fumigation

of the pilgrims after their long travels.

Getting ready to clear the air. The smoke is

 a combination of charcoal and incense. 

The botafumeiro is suspended from a pulley in 

the dome, made of brass and bronze, plated in

silver. Only used now for important occasions.

It is the largest censer in the entire world.

The central column of the Portico de Gloria.

You can no longer place your hand in the tree of

Jesse, due to erosion. We couldn't get close to it.

Just taking a break to rest the bruised 

and worn-out little puppies in the plaza.

Our friends from Hungary.

The Camino has given us many things, but

none better than our dear friends from all

over the world, especially New Zealanders, 

Marg, Wendall, Linda and Dean. 

Our Irish pals, at the local bar, of course.

And in their honor, an old Irish blessing,

extended to all the great people we've met:

"May the road rise up to meet you;

May the wind always be at your back;

May the sun shine warm upon your face,

and rains fall soft upon your fields.

And until we meet again, may God

hold you in the palm of His hand."

Tomorrow we will visit Finisterre, 

once thought to be the "end of the world."

Many pilgrims travel there to complete

their Camino experience. And so, we go. 

A story from Dave:

Back on Day 38, when we were in Triacastela, there was a limestone quarry outside of town. The limestone was used in the building of the Cathedral of Santiago. Medieval pilgrims would carry as much as they could to the limestone kilns in Castaneda (about 30 miles). At the kilns, the limestone was fired to a high temperature, creating lime that was used as mortar in the building of the Cathedral. This process has been on my mind as I prepare my story for today.

Entering the Plaza del Obradoiro in Santiago was an emotional experience for me; so many thoughts and feelings ran through my mind. It is difficult to describe all of these, so I will list them as best I can:

*Happy to have accomplished the hike and be able to return to my family and home, but sad to be done with this very interesting and enjoyable experience.

*Sad to say goodbye to the beauty and history of the country, its people, and its culture.

*Already missing the friendships made daily with other pilgrims along the way. So many were an inspiration, and some were angels when I needed help.

*Already missing all of the opportunities to help others along the Camino.

*Already missing being with a great friend every day who, for his example of friendship and kindness to me and many others, will never be forgotten.

*Still missing the feeling of carrying those rocks with the names of my family on them that I left at Cruz de Ferro. Thinking and focusing every day on a family member as I carried his or her rock in my hand or pocket was special for me. From this, I hope I will be a better husband, father, and grandfather. I have missed them all very much and can't wait to be with them again.

*Sorry to bid farewell to our cheering section in the form of comments and support from friends following us on FB and our blog. You really kept us going through the tough times. We didn't want to let you down!

*Grateful for the wonderful spiritual experiences that touched my heart. I will miss the spirit of the Camino greatly.

*NOT missing the bad blister and torn hamstring, but I guess that's just a part of the challenges we all face in our various journeys. I will remember this pilgrimage as a uniquely meaningful one and treasure it forever.

Like the limestone that was changed by fire and used to build something beautiful, I know this experience has changed me. I hope I will take this opportunity to make my life and the lives I touch more beautiful. 

A story from Mike:

Entering the plaza at Santiago de Compostela after walking the Camino in its entirety has been a dream of mine for 18 years, ever since I first arrived in this square in late May of 1999. I am so happy for my family, my sweet Lynna, my sister Ann, our grandson Max, Sue, Dave, and all who helped to make this dream a reality. I thank you with all my heart. But most of all, I am grateful to the Lord, for His generosity in providing me with a strong and willing body, a clear mind to stay out of trouble, and a willing spirit to feel and desire this journey.

In early May, Dave and I received a stamp at the pilgrim's office in the quaint French village of St. Jean Pied de Port. We then climbed the Pyrenees over a 4,275-foot summit and proceeded to slowly walk west along a trail traveled over the years by millions of pilgrims seeking heavenly insights, inspiration, restitution, sometimes forgiveness, but always hope for the inner, divine direction and clarity of soul that connects us to our Lord. When I arrived in Santiago and could see the Cathedral steeple, hear the opera singer in the stairway, and finally walk onto the plaza with the Cathedral on the left, my emotions were overpowering. I couldn't speak. I turned around in tears to hug my hiking mate, Dave. who traveled this journey filled with highs and lows, but always beside me (a true friend, a soulmate.)

We received our Compostela for completion and one certificate for distance. It states, "799 kilometers," and we traveled every step. Almost every day was filled and almost every step taken in the hope of becoming closer to my Creator, my Savior, who has given me everything. I have walked with desire to become closer to Annie and to let her know of my deep love for her and to make myself available unconditionally to her. I have walked for Max, trying to understand and overcome our deep sorrow for Melissa and Fidel's loss, reminding myself that we will reunite forever, in God's time. And I have walked because I can. Thank you.

I have learned the patience of the step-upon-step, one-turns-into-two-turns-into-three-steps action that finally brings us to desired destinations. One hill, one valley, one little village at a time, the destination is achieved, often with a measure of surprise at its arrival. We did it. I was laying this morning in the Santiago Parador in the plaza next to the Cathedral, and I heard the bells ringing-in another day. So simply, it chimed out six bells. I had to quickly shower and walk the square, calm and peaceful, knowing that today I DO NOT have to walk the Camino, just reminisce about our days' journeys. Thank you. Thank you all.

One final note: If you have enjoyed our adventure and if you have the means, please go to the end of our blog and contribute however much you are able. It will be used to help people with real-life challenges, like the loved ones in both Dave's and my families. Thank you so much. Buen Camino.

click below if you wish to donate

Day 45 – Ambulating to Arzua

Leaving Carlos 96, our hotel in Melide.

It was fine, but no air conditioning.

Great walk through the eucalyptus trees.

Bikers trying to run over us.

Shoes on a rail, no feet to love them.

Super snack shack deluxe.

Mike is in a fowl mood.

Even worse, he is using fowl language.

Robert and Jacqueline escaping crazy Mike.

(aka The Chicken King)

Baby blue hydrangeas, growing wild by the road.

This marker quotes one of Mike's favorite

scriptures: "For where your treasure is,

there will your heart be also."

Dave crossing the Rio Iso in Arzua. The

 pink lady is trying to get some blog space.

Cute old town on the outskirts of Arzua.

It's fun having friends at every bar in Spain.

Meet Santa Fe's Jacqueline and Robert, along

with Ireland's top docs, lads, and lasses.

The Irish midriff squad. Hot day!

Nice lunch skillet of Paella.

Tomorrow we head for Amenal, 14.3 miles

from here and 10 miles from Santiago.

We have two extra days if we need them

to accommodate Dave's hamstring injury.

Keep those prayers coming, please!

A story from Dave:

It was another tough day of hiking, but I have been helped by some great people on the Camino who have been very generous with their time and expertise. I certainly couldn't continue if I were on my own, which brings me to Mike. He is a great traveling companion, and with my recent troubles he has been so supportive...always asking and doing things for me and trying to lighten my load. Mike loves people and is quick to start up a conversation with those we meet on the Camino, as well as the people he meets that live in the towns. There is no language barrier with Mike. Hola! Buenos Dias! Buen Camino! Where are you from? Why are you walking the Camino? He really brightens everyone's day, mine included. During our entire hike, I haven't met anyone as friendly as Mike. Not even close.

Those who know Mike personally understand what I'm talking about, so this is no surprise to you. I mention this trait of his today because all of the Camino friends who have reached out to help me were initially brought into our sphere by Mike befriending them. We first met Marg and Linda (my voluntary Camino PT) for a brief time at dinner and were inspired by their determination. Mike stayed in touch with them by email, and at one point they let him know Marg was struggling. A couple of mornings later, he happened to see her across the street. Mike being Mike, he ran over and gave her a big hug of encouragement. A strong connection was formed, and the next time we met, I was the one in need. (That's kind of the way it goes on this pilgrimage.) I have seen over and over again how infectious this happy outreach to people has been. Today, for example, we were leaving a trailside restaurant filled with five groups of people (including my Camino docs), totaling about 30 all together. Mike was able to walk to each table and tease and say goodbye to every individual in every group, because he already knew them well. They loved it.

So thank you, Mike, on behalf of all of  us, for making the journey far more enjoyable. Everyone wants to be like Mike. Me too! 

P.S. He even reached out to a chicken today who seemed a little down. The chicken immediately buck-buck-bucked up! (watch video above)

A story from Mike:

Today's story is about miracles. It's always amazing when you get to experience them firsthand. Sometimes you find yourself asking, "Was that a miracle, or was it just a coincidence?" Dave tore his hamstring about a week ago; it had been bothering him off and on for three weeks. It's a major event for the body when that sort of tear happens, so everything inside you jumps into action to fix it. That's why Dave's legs and backside are in so much pain as he walks every day and tries to sleep at night. It's been a major burden for him to bear, but what inspires me is this: Dave's injury could have happened anywhere on the Camino, but it happened in Sarria, a place with many resources, on our rest day. One day after it began to hurt badly, we were visited by a wonderful Irish scout (in charge of scouting the next bar). His name was Tom, and he introduced us to this group of three couples from Ireland. We became fast friends, teasing and bantering all day long. Later, they brought electrolytes to relieve Dave's leg. When it felt worse on the trail the next morning, the Irish group stopped and gave him an exam, pain medication, and advice. Equally or even more of a marvel was that five weeks earlier we met and loved Marg and Linda from New Zealand. Linda, a physical therapist specializing in sports medicine, came to our room after dinner to give Dave a deep massage on his hamstring and calf––not just last night, but tonight. Furthermore, she has told Dave she will give him one tomorrow and the next night, too. This is quite a sacrifice, because she will have met up with her husband by then and probably has lots better things to do. When Dave tried to tell her she had already done too much, she insisted she wanted to help him. No arguments! The leg still hurts a lot, only time and rest will heal that, but every time Linda works on it he gets some relief.

So how does all of this happen? Can you explain how we met the doctors on the trail, how they were willing to perform an exam and treat Dave, how we then happened to run into Marg and Linda, how Linda agreed with the diagnosis and eased Dave's mind about further injury, then started doing physical therapy for him and continues to do so on a nightly basis in the middle of her vacation? Can you explain it? I know from my blog that many of you have said you were praying for Dave. I know that I have prayed for Dave every morning and every night. I know that Dave's family and my family have prayed for David as well. Some would say these fortuitous happenings were no more than a grand coincidence, a wonderful turn of events. But I could not agree. My heart tells me that every piece of this equation has been a tender mercy from the Lord, the kind of miracle that happens more times than we consciously notice and acknowledge. Tonight I do acknowledge it, with gratitude and no small amount of reverence.

  

"...I know in whom I have trusted. God hath been my support; he hath led me through my afflictions in the wilderness; and he hath preserved me upon the waters of the great deep. He hath filled me with his love..." (2 Nephi:19-21). 

Buen Camino, friends, and thank you so much for taking this journey with us.

Click below to support mental health and

suicide prevention, the causes Mike and Dave

are championing with their walk.

Day 44 – Muddling Our Way to Melide

We left Palas de Rei late this AM after some

confusion. "I am not going." "I am going." I

am not going." "You can't make me," etc.

In the end, big bad Dave made the trek.

Gorgeous tree with something hanging from it.

The bathroom window of the Camino WC.

(As in water closet.)  "When in Europe..."

Speaking of WC, this one is convenient.

Dave's calf is killing him right now. :(

Our South African lady friends.

The biggest scallop shell on the Camino.

This guy is actually slower than us!

A welcome refreshment station.

Church of Santa Maria of Leborerio

#24. (Santa Maria gets around in these parts.)

We are coming into Melide on this old bridge. 

The Rio Codeseira, just as you enter Melide.

This would make a good 500-piece puzzle.

Crossing the bridge over the Rio Codeseira. 

We have arrived at our destination!

It says, "You are made for greatness."

We believe.

A refreshing sound at the end of our hike.

The Irish group. The one with the open shirt

did the Camino exam on Dave this AM.

This is the bridge over untroubled waters.

We got a stamp for our Compostela at this

 little church in Melide, San Juan de Furelos.

Great couple. Chuck and Paula from Florida

are making it to Santiago faster than we are.

We were blessed to meet up with Marg and

Linda eons ago, when we started the Camino.

 Dinner with Marg and Linda. These were

Galician scallops and tasted fantastic! 

We wish we could have eaten this for dinner, too!

Robert and Jacqueline, the concert pianist.

We've been with them since Cruz de Ferro.

Linda came back from dinner and worked on

Dave's leg, a miracle right here on the Camino.

 Marg and Mike watched to make sure Linda 

applied enough pressure to Dave's very

swollen, black-and-blue calf!

Tomorrow we roll on to Arzua, 8.7 miles.

Prayers for Dave greatly appreciated!

A story from Dave:

The Camino Will Provide

I texted Mike early this morning saying I was going to take a cab today. I didn't get any sleep last night, as I couldn't find a position that didn't cause pain. I was frustrated to say the least and concerned that continuing to walk would cause more damage, perhaps serious damage. I decided to find a doctor for some advice, pain meds, and maybe a shot of cortisone. Just as I was about to leave, I had second thoughts and adjusted my plan. I would first try to walk, then take a cab to a doctor later if I couldn't go on. I hadn't gotten more than a couple of miles when our friends from Ireland caught up to me and asked if they could help. Two of them are doctors, general practitioners, and they stopped to give my leg an exam right there on the trail, answering all my questions and concerns. Cortisone would not be good, walking wouldn't cause more damage but might cause more pain, and the calf pain and bruising were caused by blood draining down from the hamstring tear at the top of my leg. They then gave me a small supply of pain meds and told me what to get at the next pharmacy. We passed them a couple more times during the day, as they had stopped for refreshments. From the distance, their whole group was visibly and audibly cheering me on. Later in the day, we met up with our friends Marg and Linda from New Zealand. Marg has Parkinsons, and Linda is her personal trainer. They have been an inspiration to us. Linda has lots of experience with injury therapy and confirmed everything the doctors had told me earlier in the day. She even offered to work on my leg tonight (which she did, and it helped!), and she has arranged to work on it again tomorrow night, since we are headed for the same city. 

During those restless hours of pain last night, I was convinced I needed to take a cab and find a doctor to help me. In the morning, I felt so uncertain about what to do. But I decided to trust the Camino, and there I found all that I needed. Blessings came in the form of friends, which is how God's help usually comes. It has been said about life's trials and experiences, "I didn't say it would be easy; I only said it would be worth it." How true!

Dave's PT

A story from Mike:

Today has been a positive day, especially coming off the departure from Sarria. Even Brierly's book about the Camino warns us about the change of ambience the Camino undergoes from Sarria to Santiago. The first day out of Sarria, Dave and I ran into large groups of pilgrims, mostly from high schools in the Madrid area. Additional groups came from other countries: 18 women from South Africa, for instance, and smaller groups like our six buddies from Ireland that seem to wave to us from every bar we pass. My frustration was that the newer, larger groups were loud and noisy, changing the feeling of the Camino and almost showing a lack of respect for the nature and the reverence developed over many days on The Way. 

I am learning, as in life, that it is the people who make the Camino exceptionally wonderful. Yesterday and today completely reversed my disgruntled feelings as we left Sarria. I attribute this reversal to the relationships with individuals and groups that we have formed over the last several days and weeks. For example, we ran into Robert and Jacqueline in Melide. (You may remember them from a couple of weeks ago.) They are the pair from New Mexico: she a concert pianist, he an "apprecianado" of concert pianists...or at least, of his concert pianist. We initially bonded because of the challenges with our bodies. Jackie had a horribly bad knee and felt deeply concerned that she would not complete the Camino. One night, unable to find an albergue, she broke down in tears for fear of not attaining her goal of walking into Santiago de Compostela. After meeting with the doctor and resting a few days, her knee was well enough to continue. Jackie overcame great challenges personally and physically to move on and accomplish her goal.  Another example would be Marg and Linda from New Zealand, the ones we met in Los Arcos. You might recall that Marg has suffered from Parkinson's disease for over ten years. After falling in Burgos, she struggled with major bruises and then serious blisters, some of which still exist. She and her partner laid out for some time to recover and are now back on the Camino, the end in sight.

An example much closer to home is Dave, my trail partner on the Camino. For the last three weeks his hamstring has become increasingly painful. It appears he may have pulled that muscle as the injury has now radiated to his calf, making it extremely painful to walk. This morning before we met for breakfast, Dave texted that he was going to catch a cab to Santiago and meet with a doctor to see if his problem could be treated. When I got down for breakfast, he informed me that he was walking to Melide after all, but that he would be moving slowly. I was excited he had decided to walk and more than willing to travel at any pace he wanted. About half an hour out of Palas de Rei, we were overtaken by our fun-loving Irish friends, three couples we have thoroughly enjoyed as we joked back and forth along the way. (Two of them are the doctors that prescribed electrolytes for Dave yesterday.) Being aware of Dave's situation, they actually stopped to give him a physical and evaluate his leg and calf. They prescribed another pain medication and indicated that there was nothing he could really do for it, but that walking on the leg would not cause further damage. It was as if Dave had gone to Santiago for a doctor's opinion after all, another little miracle of the Camino––a tender mercy, not a coincidence. Dave's leg is not doing better yet. It was not easy at all for him to walk into Melide today, but he has great inner strength and is now 15 kilometers closer to his goal.

All of these are but small examples of many challenges facing the pilgrims who decide to walk the Camino. It is humbling to be with people who show such strength and fortitude as they overcome their challenges and accomplish their goals. We can and do learn so much about life and living on the Camino.

Dave's docs.

Click below to support mental health and

suicide prevention, the causes Mike and Dave

are championing with their walk.