Day 49 – Finishing in Finisterre

The coast leading up to Finisterre, or 

"Land's End." This fishing village is also 

called Fisterra. Either name is correct.

The last monument we will ever pose beside

that says 0.0 kilometers. (It begins over in

Santiago for those who choose to walk it.)

This is the lighthouse at Fisterra...

A timeless and rather mystical feel here.

"You can leave the Camino, but the

the Camino will never leave you."

Yet another shoe, this one bronzed

and securely attached to the rock.

Tradition was that when you reached the end,

you would burn your worn-out clothing. The

sign now forbids that activity. Why d'ya think

that makes Mikey want to torch something??

The end of the world: Atlantic Ocean.

"It took forever, and it took no time at all."

Oliver Schroer

Finisterre Point: the video.

Cool old cross, right on the Point.

Here is St. James, holding his trek pole.

Dos Amigos, posing in front of our final cross

(see background). It even has shoes around it!

This is the statue looking across the bay 

from the lighthouse.

A pilgrim who didn't quite make it to the end.

But we did!

This is our last blog post, as we don't think our

long plane rides home are worth recording.

Below are Mike and Dave's last two stories

and a poem by Sue, written especially for us.

Buen Camino, friends! 

A final story from Dave:

a horreo

Once we entered the Galicia part of northern Spain, we started to notice these odd-shaped buildings on many of the properties. A number of people we met asked us what they were for, and we all had guesses, including a place to put your unruly teenagers. We found out later that it is a storage shed for grain and sometimes dried meat for the family's use. The structure is called a horreo and is off the ground and built in such a way that the rats and other vermin can't get to the food. 

We saw a lot of these structures on our way to Fisterra. Fisterra is the westernmost point in Spain, and some pilgrims walk there after completing the Camino de Santiago. The ancients believed that the ocean west of Fisterra was the end of the world; if you ventured there, you would fall off the edge. We modern-types know better: west, for Mike and me, is home. Tomorrow, we will see our families again, and we would both jump off the edge of the world if that were the only way to get to them.

We have had a great experience, one that we will long remember. Mike and I will not allow the "vermin" of time to steal away our memories; they are far too valuable for that. Instead, we will store those memories in a special place for safekeeping, like the horreo, and bring them to our minds when we require their nourishment to keep us going. 

Henry David Thoreau did a wonderful job of describing our Camino walk, and I would love to share it with you: "So we saunter...till one day the sun shall shine more brightly than ever he has done, shall perchance shine into our minds and hearts, and light up our whole lives with a great awakening light, as warm and serene and golden as on a bankside in autumn." What a blessing it has been!

"Give me my scallop shell of quiet,

My staff of faith to walk upon,

My scrip of joy, immortal diet,

My bottle of salvation,

My gown of glory, hope's true gage;

And then I'll take my pilgrimage."

–Sir Walter Raleigh

Thanks for all your support and love. And for one last time, Buen Camino.

Vaya con Dios 

(Go with God)

A poem from Sue, written in honor of Dave, Mike, and their Camino:

Camino de Santiago: The Way Home

©2017 Susan Noyes Anderson

In days of yore, the pilgrims walked The Way

to show their piety, their love of God.

They took their sins and burdens, seeking grace,

renewing faith on every path they trod.

Their hearts were open, seeking hope and truth.

No obstacle deterred them from that goal.

Theirs was a mighty quest, a witness borne,

a promise made and carried in the soul.

Though times have changed, a few things never will.

Men still require a rock on which to stand.

Pilgrims on earth, they yearn for warmth and peace.

Each child longs for the touch of Father's hand.

An emptiness is felt, an aching need,

with foolish ways to fill it and with wise.

The world has naught to compensate the loss.

For light, the only Source is in the skies.

And so men think and plan and dream and pray,

in search of means to find heaven on earth.

They are but strangers in a foreign land,

missing a memory lived before their birth.

Life is a pilgrimage, a journey home.

All men must make it, each in his own way.

Camino is the same, a simile,

with burdens and with blessings every day.

Some travel well, some wounded, some distressed.

The happiest find strength in those around.

They give and they receive in equal part;

and in their presence, love and joy abound.

They bring us home, as Mike and Dave have done.

Our spirits have been fed and fed again.

And following their footsteps, we have felt

the sacred touch of Father's hand again.
∞§∞

"We are pilgrims on the earth and strangers.
We have come from afar, and we are going far."
–Vincent van Gogh

A final story from Mike:

I don't think I have ever been so tired as I am right now. It is 3:00 in the afternoon. We just got back from Fisterra, which was an hour taxi ride out to the coast, an hour visiting the lighthouse, and an hour back. Fisterra is known as the end of the earth, and it is the westernmost part of Spain. It's where the pilgrims sometimes go after they arrive in Santiago. The tradition is, as they get there, to burn their clothes and other items they are "sick and tired of wearing." For us, it is the end of our Camino. It has been a most amazing trip, and a large part of that has been each of you reading our blog. Thank you so much.

I am packing up and leaving on a 6:45 AM flight from Santiago de Compostela across the pond and landing at 8:55 PM in Fresno, California to begin a week's family reunion in Yosemite National Park wth my family of four kids and 14 grandkids, my brother's family of three kids and five grandkids, and my sister Annie's two boys...totaling a bunch!

I wanted to end with this thought: I love my sister Annie and the great support she has given me on this trip. Thank you, thank you. I have known Annie her entire life (she is 16 years my junior), and she is beautiful, athletic, caring, bright, and incredibly talented. Her photography should hang on walls of prestigious galleries around the world. Annie is one of the bravest people I know. She is a fighter who has overcome inner challenges that are not visible from the outside. She suffers from anxiety and depression; most of the time she can control it, but it can creep back. The organizations like Didi Hirsch and National Alliance for Mental Illness are helping many with similar challenges and inner battles. I am glad that a number of organizations around the world are raising large sums of money through donations for causes like multiple sclerosis, cerebral palsy, breast cancer, diabetes and more...but mental illness is significantly more difficult to fund. There remains, for reasons that are in no way valid, a stigma that interferes with the giving. Many still have a difficult time even talking about mental illness and the ones it affects. It is the unspoken illness of our society and can lead to tragic results.

We hope you will take a moment and visit the sites for Didi Hirsch of Los Angeles and NAMI of Santa Clara to view the positive programs they offer. Then, if you heart is moved to do so, please consider donating to the cause for which Dave and I walked the Camino. A small donation can make a huge difference to a real person like my sister, Annie. Buen Camino, my friends.

 Mike's remarkable sister, Annie

Click below to support mental health and

suicide prevention, the causes Mike and Dave

are championing with their walk.

Day 48 – Pilgrim's Mass, Cathedral Sights, and Santiago

Here we are, in the middle of the plaza,

ready to attend the Pilgrim's Mass.

These stone plaques are at the center. Neat.

Front door of the Catedral de Santiago.

This is Lynna's favorite alcove in the church.

To see Jesus holding this little boy touched her

heart, because Max is in the arms of Jesus, too. 

Another alcove, including a statue of Mary.

This is the crypt and silver box where

the relics of St. James reside. 

Video, descending into the vault.

The tradition is for pilgrims to hug the upper

bust of this St. James statue. The photo doesn't 

 do it justice. It's quite ornate, with huge jewels.

Dave, getting ready to hug the statue of St. James.

Dave, coming out of upper room.

St. James the Pilgrim in the Cathedral,

a simple and beautiful piece of art.

Inside the main church hall, readying the

Botafumeiro, which releases smoke that

in ancient days was used as fumigation

of the pilgrims after their long travels.

Getting ready to clear the air. The smoke is

 a combination of charcoal and incense. 

The botafumeiro is suspended from a pulley in 

the dome, made of brass and bronze, plated in

silver. Only used now for important occasions.

It is the largest censer in the entire world.

The central column of the Portico de Gloria.

You can no longer place your hand in the tree of

Jesse, due to erosion. We couldn't get close to it.

Just taking a break to rest the bruised 

and worn-out little puppies in the plaza.

Our friends from Hungary.

The Camino has given us many things, but

none better than our dear friends from all

over the world, especially New Zealanders, 

Marg, Wendall, Linda and Dean. 

Our Irish pals, at the local bar, of course.

And in their honor, an old Irish blessing,

extended to all the great people we've met:

"May the road rise up to meet you;

May the wind always be at your back;

May the sun shine warm upon your face,

and rains fall soft upon your fields.

And until we meet again, may God

hold you in the palm of His hand."

Tomorrow we will visit Finisterre, 

once thought to be the "end of the world."

Many pilgrims travel there to complete

their Camino experience. And so, we go. 

A story from Dave:

Back on Day 38, when we were in Triacastela, there was a limestone quarry outside of town. The limestone was used in the building of the Cathedral of Santiago. Medieval pilgrims would carry as much as they could to the limestone kilns in Castaneda (about 30 miles). At the kilns, the limestone was fired to a high temperature, creating lime that was used as mortar in the building of the Cathedral. This process has been on my mind as I prepare my story for today.

Entering the Plaza del Obradoiro in Santiago was an emotional experience for me; so many thoughts and feelings ran through my mind. It is difficult to describe all of these, so I will list them as best I can:

*Happy to have accomplished the hike and be able to return to my family and home, but sad to be done with this very interesting and enjoyable experience.

*Sad to say goodbye to the beauty and history of the country, its people, and its culture.

*Already missing the friendships made daily with other pilgrims along the way. So many were an inspiration, and some were angels when I needed help.

*Already missing all of the opportunities to help others along the Camino.

*Already missing being with a great friend every day who, for his example of friendship and kindness to me and many others, will never be forgotten.

*Still missing the feeling of carrying those rocks with the names of my family on them that I left at Cruz de Ferro. Thinking and focusing every day on a family member as I carried his or her rock in my hand or pocket was special for me. From this, I hope I will be a better husband, father, and grandfather. I have missed them all very much and can't wait to be with them again.

*Sorry to bid farewell to our cheering section in the form of comments and support from friends following us on FB and our blog. You really kept us going through the tough times. We didn't want to let you down!

*Grateful for the wonderful spiritual experiences that touched my heart. I will miss the spirit of the Camino greatly.

*NOT missing the bad blister and torn hamstring, but I guess that's just a part of the challenges we all face in our various journeys. I will remember this pilgrimage as a uniquely meaningful one and treasure it forever.

Like the limestone that was changed by fire and used to build something beautiful, I know this experience has changed me. I hope I will take this opportunity to make my life and the lives I touch more beautiful. 

A story from Mike:

Entering the plaza at Santiago de Compostela after walking the Camino in its entirety has been a dream of mine for 18 years, ever since I first arrived in this square in late May of 1999. I am so happy for my family, my sweet Lynna, my sister Ann, our grandson Max, Sue, Dave, and all who helped to make this dream a reality. I thank you with all my heart. But most of all, I am grateful to the Lord, for His generosity in providing me with a strong and willing body, a clear mind to stay out of trouble, and a willing spirit to feel and desire this journey.

In early May, Dave and I received a stamp at the pilgrim's office in the quaint French village of St. Jean Pied de Port. We then climbed the Pyrenees over a 4,275-foot summit and proceeded to slowly walk west along a trail traveled over the years by millions of pilgrims seeking heavenly insights, inspiration, restitution, sometimes forgiveness, but always hope for the inner, divine direction and clarity of soul that connects us to our Lord. When I arrived in Santiago and could see the Cathedral steeple, hear the opera singer in the stairway, and finally walk onto the plaza with the Cathedral on the left, my emotions were overpowering. I couldn't speak. I turned around in tears to hug my hiking mate, Dave. who traveled this journey filled with highs and lows, but always beside me (a true friend, a soulmate.)

We received our Compostela for completion and one certificate for distance. It states, "799 kilometers," and we traveled every step. Almost every day was filled and almost every step taken in the hope of becoming closer to my Creator, my Savior, who has given me everything. I have walked with desire to become closer to Annie and to let her know of my deep love for her and to make myself available unconditionally to her. I have walked for Max, trying to understand and overcome our deep sorrow for Melissa and Fidel's loss, reminding myself that we will reunite forever, in God's time. And I have walked because I can. Thank you.

I have learned the patience of the step-upon-step, one-turns-into-two-turns-into-three-steps action that finally brings us to desired destinations. One hill, one valley, one little village at a time, the destination is achieved, often with a measure of surprise at its arrival. We did it. I was laying this morning in the Santiago Parador in the plaza next to the Cathedral, and I heard the bells ringing-in another day. So simply, it chimed out six bells. I had to quickly shower and walk the square, calm and peaceful, knowing that today I DO NOT have to walk the Camino, just reminisce about our days' journeys. Thank you. Thank you all.

One final note: If you have enjoyed our adventure and if you have the means, please go to the end of our blog and contribute however much you are able. It will be used to help people with real-life challenges, like the loved ones in both Dave's and my families. Thank you so much. Buen Camino.

click below if you wish to donate

Day 46 & 47- The Arduous Trail to Amenal, The Abandoned Rest Day, and Sailing into Santiago!

Dave was excited to leave for Amenal early.

Michael left his home in Austria and 

is going all the way to Santiago today. 

This guy is a hiking animal!

Another shoe whose owner was not happy 

with its performance. 

Dave, looking to cushion his own shoe with a 

special boot liner, quite popular on the Camino.

(Who dung it?)

Some beautiful countryside.

We will miss seeing these sights every day.

Spread eagle. Perfect form!

Dave, looking down the trail wistfully,

dreaming about how fast he used to go.

The flowers on the trail today were

magazine-perfect!

Wonderful, vivid color.

More flowers, near the Camino marker.

Walking into Amenal. Next stop, Santiago!

Flowers and more flowers. Can't even 

describe how beautiful they are.

It has started to rain but feels very refreshing.

Look at that good-lookin' man. (Sue)

Great paths through eucalyptus tree groves.

Fun Irish pals; we always see them at bars

 along the way. Sean, in a striped shirt, hails

from Limerick, Ireland. He's wearing Dave's

hat from Limerick, Maine to "authenticate" it.

More footless shoes, left behind on The Way.

Wonderful path through the forest.

Shoe abandonment: a major issue in Spain.

(Along with ice cream addiction.)

Happy trails to you!

Just horsin' around.

ONWARD, TO SANTIAGO! 

YEP, SANTIAGO!!

Well, our rest day in Amenal turned into a rest

morning. We decided to walk into Santiago!

The trail was long and steep, but beautiful .

It was also nice and cool, which was great!

Dave, a glutton for punishment, was rarin'

to go! The end was at last in sight!!

A monument of an old pilgrim.

Guess which one is older, left or right?

This crazy pilgrim from Germany was in his

own world. Great hiking stick and accessories!

Just a fence pole that caught Mike's eye.

Guess he's more "ivy" league than we knew.

Mike wants to call these "bottle brush"

flowers, but the editor won't let him.

Such a neat trail we walked today.

Mike, feeding the algae growing inside his

hat with water from a trailside spring. Ew.

Never realized Mike was such a lover of flowers.

 Guess Lynna has rubbed off on him over the years.

On the trail, with Mike in the lead.

Nice, shady stream as we near Santiago.

Mike, dancing for joy on the last day of our

Camino. Great feeling! (Nice moves, too.)

Walking past Santiago airport, we ran into

this quiet stream with jets flying overhead.

First view of the Capilla de San Marcos on

the way into Santiago. Lots of history there.

Monte de Gozo (Hill of Joy) is where Christian

 pilgrims got their first views of the 3 spires 

of the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela.

Mike and Dave, up close and personal!

The monument is at our backs.

Dave's favorite story on the Camino:

Knights Templar statue.

Mike's favorite story on the Camino: 

Acting like himself for a change!

Another great monument (?) as we enter Santiago.

Unprecedented dudes. We have arrived!

Entering the city of Santiago.

Dave's first look at the Cathedral. Victory!

Thrilled to see the Cathedral in the distance as

we pilgrims enter the old, historic part of town.

Back side of church, before entering the plaza.

(Back side of Dave: still sore.)

Happy hikers, ready to enter the plaza.

Shouldn't there be a drum roll or something?

Music to welcome us!

Note from Mike: Look closely, 

Dave is itching his behind.

The cathedral is wrapped for restoration.

Still beautiful.

(A sight for sore feet?)

Elder and Sister Britton, serving in Madrid.

Their family is visiting from the States.

In the plaza with Mike's best friend:

Orange Fanta...

...Along with his BFF, Dave.

Another shot of the back of the Cathedral, 

aka the Praza Obradoiro Cathedral.

A welcome sight for every pilgrim.

Look, it's the line to get our Compostelas

(certificates of completion)!

There's a bit of a wait, but we're up for it!

Video of us standing in line for the certificate.

Against all odds, we have made this thing happen!

Ignacio, a priest serving in China, interviewing

Dave about his Camino, reviewing his stamped 

passport, and filling out his Compostela.

A pretty great moment.

This guy, a priest in training, interviewed Mike.

He is now best buddies with a Haitian living

in Pamplona and studying to be a priest!

Dinner for Mike...sole for the soul.

And for Dave, a very tender hunk of veal.

Pretty good after weeks of Camino food.

With guya and lemon sorbet for dessert.

Yes, we celebrated!

We close out this day with a video 

that kind of sums it all up for us.

And a poem by Rainer Maria Rilke:

A Walk

My eyes already touch the sunny hill,

going far ahead of the road I have begun.

So we are grasped by what we cannot grasp;

it has inner light, even from a distance––

and changes us, even if we do not reach it,

into something else, which, hardly sensing it,

we already are; a gesture waves us on,

answering our own wave...

but what we feel is the wind in our faces.

Translated from German by Robert Bly

There are no stories today, just joyous celebration, rest, and quiet contemplation for Dave and Mike. But tomorrow, the Pilgrim's Mass will be attended, and personal stories will be told. We look forward to sharing these final days with you as we approach the end of our Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. Buen Camino, friends. We have fulfilled a dream, one which began as Mike's and ended up as Mike and Dave's. "What draws people to be friends is that they see the same truth. They share it." –C.S. Lewis

And so it is.

Click below to support mental health and

suicide prevention, the causes Mike and Dave

are championing with their walk.