Day 14 – Soldiering on to St. Juan

Leaving Belarado with nearly 15 miles ahead!

Near Tosantos, a town of less than 60 people, we

see a church built into the face of the rock...

The Ermita de Nuestra Señora de la Pena.

Leaving Villambistia, we get a hot selfie with

the first mustard field we've seen. Nice!

(The guy in the shades is very pilgrimsh.)

Stopping at Espinosa del Camino for breakfast:

banana, donut, pecan ice cream bar, drinks.

(healthy fare)

A darling German couple we've come to know.

(story below)

Dave soaks his hat to beat the heat.

Wet hat in hand, Dave is ready to boogie.

Going into Villafranca Montes de Oca in a gorgeous

little valley from which we climb 825 feet straight up.

No sports drinks to be found here, so Dave settled

for an Airborne drink from my Motrin buddy, Jane.

Left foot, right foot, left foot, right...

The long and not-so-winding road.

Despite Dave's best effort, that horse won't ride.

Is it just me, or is Dave looking a little lethargic?

Looking back on our way out of another small town.

Guy with burro descending from high mountains.

One or both of them not so fragrant...

This is where I recall hugging my sister on a prior

trip and getting teary. Do you remember it, Annie?

(Mike)

Mike ties another ribbon for the Taylor family.

And the tiring day rolls on...

Ups and downs, highs and lows...

Until the life-saving refreshment stand.

Delightful respite from the heat of the day!

Mike! You booked this place for tonight??

Hope you got a good price. (Dave)

Arrival into San Juan de Ortega, with its famed 

monastery, home of El Milagro de La Luz.

(more below)

This shield kind of looks like it is snickering at us.

Top arrow says we still have a long way to go.

Didn't know this was a major crossroads, did ya?

One sign near the top says USA-New Hampshire

is 5377 kilometers. A long way from home!

Doesn't scare us!

But this blood sausage for Dave's dinner kinda does.

A guitar player at the aubergue is actually very good.

He gets roaring ovations for every song!

Tomorrow we arrive in Burgos, where

we are looking forward to another rest day!

A story from Dave:

Tony and Andrea (below) are a sweet German couple that have made us smile. We've met the pair several times over the past days, sometimes at dinner and sometimes at breakfast. Neither of them is retired yet, and they have walked many sections of the Camino over the years. One morning, we noticed that Tony was on the trail, walking back toward us instead of forward. We asked him if he had forgotten something. He explained that he first eats breakfast with wife, then drives to the next city while she walks. After arriving, he turns around and walks back to meet her so they can walk on together to the car. They repeat this process all day long for two weeks. Tony was limping, so we concluded he can walk only so far and no more. A nice bonus to their plan is that Tony can move the car along with the luggage, allowing them to walk with only a small pack. And there it is: Another way to walk the Camino, but more importantly, another way to walk it together, making creative accommodations for each other's needs. Isn't that what marriage is all about?

A story from Mike:

"The so-called "miracle of light" that occurs at the Monasterio de St. Juan de Ortega (above) is an almost esoteric phenomenon that combines mysticism and beauty in equal parts. It occurs only during the spring and autumn equinox, when darkness and light are equally balanced. A single shaft of the setting sun enters through a stained glass window, striking and illuminating the representation of the Virgin of the Annunciation from beginning to the end in an event which draw pilgrims from all over the world. This spectacle perfectly combines the artistic, the religious, and the astronomical." We hope you will find the video depicting this event (below) interesting.

There is another story attached to this "miracle," or milagro. Queen Isobel la Catolica was having a hard time conceiving, so she came to the monastery in St. Juan de Ortega in hopes that she would be gifted with the conception she so desired. As she stood at the altar, the sun came through the round window at the top of the church and settled on her womb. It is said that she conceived and gave birth to Juan, a male heir to the throne, nine months later.

Click below to support mental health services

and read more about the cause Mike and Dave 

are supporting with their walk.